Monday, March 31, 2008

budabubump chshhhhhh

All of my students are excited about April fools day.  Need to stay on my guard tomorrow.  Made bread on Saturday.  Planted vegetables on my balcony on Sunday.  Ran into some of my students Saturday evening smoking out at the stadium.  Talked to them for a while, probably teaching them more English in that hour + than I have the whole school semester.  Also got some ground level information about the lack of HIV/AIDS knowledge and why they don't wear seatbelts, think smoking and drinking are ok in moderation, lack of sexual education and so on.  Very interesting.  This week my goal is to teach two environmental lessons to my 8th form and begin investigating how Ukrainian people can communicate with their government in 10th form.  I love these long evenings, time has changed and the sun sets at 19:40, light till 20:30.

Thursday, March 27, 2008

Yesterday

Chocolate cravings? Weird. Maybe skipping lunch was part of the reason I couldn’t resist the chocolate I was planning on saving. I’m still waiting for warm weather. Keep getting little teases, and then I look out the window to see snow coming down. Maybe I need to have the bone spurs on my heels surgically removed. Why do I always fail to play violin 7 days in a row? I always miss one somewhere, deciding instead to watch soccer or read on the couch. It’s so much easier to make progress if I play every day. Instead I am stagnant in skill and ability. It feels like I’m developing bad habits and need to figure out a way to catch them myself. This is the first time since I was six that I have not had regular violin lessons.
I’m worried that this blog as a cross cultural window will cease to exist because either there are no more differences that I haven’t already commented on, or I have become accustomed and even new things generally fit the pattern and fail to stand out as different. Oh well, it always was more self centered anyway, which might even be more interesting. I think of textbooks when I think of impersonal cross cultural accounts, but my favorite books always are intensely personal. Not that this comes anywhere near to an actual book. Paid too much rent, part of the reason I’m broke right now. I have $15 in the bank and less than that in my pocket. It’s ok, I get my next living allowance tomorrow or the next day, and I have plenty of food.

Monday, March 24, 2008

Random numbers

Soccer scores, my team listed first
3-3
1-3
4-0
So far I have one goal and one assist.
 
Last four weeks of running milage, down to 5 days of running
19
24
26
18
 
Utility usage Jan 20th-Feb 20th
Gas= 181 cubic meters
Water= 1.6 cubic meters
Electricity= didn't find first month
 
Utility usage Feb 20th-March 20th
Gas= 109 cubic meters
Water= 1.3 cubic meters
Electricity= 63.4 Kilowatt Hours
 
Inflation on bus tickets since I arrived at site= 29%
anything else?

back to school

Liam left on his journey back to Germany this morning.  I was getting used to having someone to talk to.  It was so much easier to cook for two people, actually he did lots of cooking and I washed the dishes.  What a sweet deal.  Seeing my life through his eyes was interesting.  How many weird things I now accept as normal and how nice and stable my situation is overall.  A steady income for 2 years, enough for everything I need.  How lucky I am.  Some of the highlights of his visit;  Two of the most crowded маршрутки (Mini Buses) I have ever been on and the coldest sunny weather since February.  He also got 2 days of snow and one day of rain which adds up what seems to be normal March weather.  I really enjoyed the break from being stared at, because with him in town, everyone was looking at him.  Also with his facial hair, I apparently look two years younger than him. 

         We did some visiting because Ukrainian people are so hospitable that even just the fact that he was my brother qualified him for multiple home-cooked meals.  It was interesting hearing what I'm sure people told me when I first came to Ukraine, but now that my language skills are better I can understand some of it.  The typical questions I was asked to translate for Liam were; how do you like Ukraine? (Liam quickly learned добре, which means good); how do you like our food?  Where is life better, USA or Germany?  What do you think about our roads?  How much does ____ cost in Germany?  Do you have a girlfriend?  It was odd how nearly ever person commented that the women here are very beautiful, and perhaps Liam would like to have a Ukrainian girlfriend.  

         Since I don't have a spring break, it was nice to have Liam to break up the routine, and do some interesting sight seeing.  We also made tons of delicious food together.  Now I've got that after summer camp feeling, like "awe man, I gotta go back to school?"  But hey, sometimes school is fun.

         Just had internet for a good 15 minutes, but couldn't log onto gmail.  Yahoo worked just fine.  Really want to print out my 5th form's pen pal letters.  Maybe I'll get to try it one more time.  I'm trying to save some money for summer travel, but this month got really expensive, so I don't even have enough to buy soccer cleats.  Looks like April will be another no meat, no cheese save money month.  Healthier that way anyway.

 

Monday, March 17, 2008

Monday Tired

First soccer game we lost 3-1.  We played really stupidly.  There is a fair amount of talent on our team, but yesterday we did not play as a team, and the bumpiest muddiest field I have ever seen prevented our higher skill level from doing anything.  It was the watching effect, one person on the ball, everyone else watching.  Then when they had the ball, we were doing the reacting thing, instead of the anticipating thing.  We never tried to just play simple easy passes, mainly because everyone was standing and watching, and there is no way to connect passes if people are not moving and making runs.  Simple two touch soccer would have destroyed that team.  Over-aggression also took its toll, especially when the random bumps in the field made it so the opponent on the ball did not even have to make a move, the ball bounced and swerved all around on its own.  Two of their goals were bad hops in the penalty area which just ended up in some unfortunate position, and the third was an amazing long range shot.

I played poorly also, missing a wide open volley from about 15 yards out, just had to side foot it in to either side of the keeper, but didn't keep it under the crossbar.  I played the whole game at left wing, definitely putting in some miles.  I overcompensated physically, my opponents were stronger muscle wise, but I still have to play the ball.  I had quite a few silly fouls, but no cards.  Think I made some enemies.  Got to remember I'm the first American they have seen, and I need to avoid getting a reputation as a dirty player, because I'm sure somebody will not be afraid to take me out, probably some dude who works in a coal mine, and I don't want to go back to any Ukrainian hospital.  I don't want to make excuses but here are just some more things I would like to change.  We didn't have any subs, but even so, half the team had a cigarette at half time.  The bus arrived at the field exactly 5 min before kickoff.  My missed volley in the 5th minute was my third touch on the ball, all day.  I didn't stretch until half time.  The field had gofer holes, goose poop, and was not as flat as your average potato field.  I don't have the language skills to express how we need to adapt tactically on the field, simple passes, run to get open, one more pass and other things I thought I was said did not do anything.

On Saturday I attended an info session on how to write grants and organize aids/hiv education projects.  Pretty psyched to get something going, but I have to sell in to some people in my schools and get community support.  PEPFAR or Presidents Emergeny Plan for Aids Relief provides quite a bit of money for education.  Of course none of the money can be spend to provide condoms.  Right now waiting for some internet where I can hopefully look up some statistics that I can print out in Ukrainian to help convince people in my school that such an education campaign is necessary.  This is what I have so far discovered, the below according to Ukraine Aids Alliance.

According to the recent statistical data, almost 18,000 new HIV infections were found in Ukraine in the year 2007 alone. In addition, 4,573 persons were diagnosed with AIDS, including 115 children. 2,507 persons died of AIDS (including 23 children).

On January 1, 2008 there were 81,741 persons living with HIV who were officially registered. Experts estimate, however, that up to 10 times more Ukrainians may be living with HIV and not know it. All of this gives Ukraine the sad 1st place on the growth rate of HIV in Europe.

A lack of access to accurate information and services combined with the stigma and discrimination associated with HIV/AIDS in Ukraine places young people at heightened risk for HIV infection. 

March 14

A beautiful sunny morning turned into half rain half snow windstorm as March marches on.  All of my classes seem to be switched around today, sort of a bummer, because it works out that I only have 3 classes to teach, but there is an hour free period in between each one.  Five hours at school for only 3 hours of teaching.  Not having any control over what topic is frustrating, especially when it feels like they are ready to move on, but the curriculum says that one more day needs to be spend teaching continents and countries.  It is too easy for my 7th graders. 

            I am realizing that having a computer and internet at home might actually make me a better teacher.  So many resources are online, and so many opportunities seem to pass me by as I struggle to get 3 hours of painfully slow internet at school each week (most weeks I'm lucky to get 1.5 hours).  Maybe I'm just trying to convince myself to shell out the 2-300 bucks it would cost + monthly internet charge.  Hmm.  I was determined to save my outside money for traveling this summer, and computers are more expensive here, and programmed in Russian?  Guess I need to do more research. 

            Utterly failed to do my Ukrainian homework thanks to an interesting thriller book my mom sent me.  I was planning on cramming it in right after school, but now my schedules all turned around. 

            Did I mention those old West German cleats turned out to be too old?  The rubber was brittle and actually cracked, shattered in fact.  What a bummer of an 80UAH sinkhole.  Need to get some quality cleats I guess, yet another big purchase to plan out around rent payment and cheese consumption (because cheese is more expensive than avocado here).  Time for my last class.  Then will be tutoring, then maybe soccer practice, then maybe back to school for an internet attempt, then more of that book.  Shoot, totally forgot to buy bread this morning.

Thursday, March 13, 2008

cookies

The principle (Director) of my school turns 50 today. The presents
are ridiculous. The English teachers are all pitching in 50 UAH
mostly as a cash present, though there will be cookies and champagne.
This is 5% of their monthly salary. My director is nice, efficient,
smart, but just because she's the director I don't think she deserves
more congratulations, more presents and more money than everyone else.
She already makes a salary of at least double the teachers. I love
how important personal connections are to Ukrainian people. It is
unfortunate when these connections become political, not maintained
because of sincere appreciation, but because your director has the
power to mess up your life, so it's worth going all out on chocolate,
cash and flowers to make a show.
The teachers' meeting was also a new experience. There was voting to
confirm teachers had reached a new rank, but apparently no one has
ever voted against promoting someone, so what's the point of voting?
There was a comment period before each vote, but of course people only
said positive things because making enemies here has dire
consequences. Again, personal connections have far more power the
facts of your on the job performance.

Tuesday’s on the phone

Things here are starting to take on a life of their own. I no longer
have to plan every day, every week to avoid sitting alone in my
apartment. Ok, I still have to plan, but the effort seems to be less
all the time. The biggest change has been the start of the soccer
season. We had a friendly match on Sunday, and after missing two wide
open goals playing left wing, I finally put an easy slop rebound into
the back of the net to score the first goal of the 2008 season. Cool.
The game was a comedy of errors, and ended up 3-3 even though our
team was stronger. It looks like I'll get a starting position; the
coach tried me at both fullback and wing. We'll see what he prefers.
I just hope the grass starts growing soon, even though that might make
the field even bumpier. This coming Sunday will be the first real
game, on the road somewhere, not sure where. I just know when and
where to meet the bus. Yesterday was a pretty fun practice, most
people off work including myself to observe March 8th, international
women's day. I like the idea of a women's day, but it seemed too much
focused on giving flowers and chocolate, not recognizing how much
women have achieved and how much more work there is to be done to
achieve equity and equal opportunity.
I have also been fairly effectively adopted into my Ukrainian tutor's
family. Her sons think I'm the coolest dude ever, and always start
bugging us before we're done language exercises to see if I can come
play yet; cowboys, cops, robbers, soccer, bandits, GTA, checkers and
so on. They are 7 and 4 years old. Following the older way, the
grandparents live on the same property, and so every time I come over
for language, I end up getting fed, playing with the kids, and
confiding work frustrations/friendship making efforts with my 'older
sister' language tutor. I guess that makes those little energy
bundles my nieces. She is going to give birth in a few weeks, and
there will be a break in my tutoring, for maybe a month or until her
new baby gets baptized.
Flowers are coming up in the forest, birds are singing, temperature
is warming. Change here is so gradual, each week, slightly warmer.
Feels like I haven't had internet for a while. Last week the price
of my apartment was renegotiated, the price is now double what it was.
I saw an orchestra concert, and think that I have the skills to play
in it. The violin soloist (Dvorak Violin Concerto) from the L'viv
conservatory was not as skilled as conservatory musicians in the
States. I think the same higher pay that pulls skilled labor away
from Ukraine also pulls skilled/talented musicians to work in W.
Europe where the pay is much higher. The piano soloist (Saint Sains
'Egyptian') seemed good, though I have no idea how to judge piano
skill.
Running has come down to 20 miles a week, thanks to increased soccer.
Achilles recovers during the week of running and strengthening
exercises, and then hurts after soccer on the weekends, which always
manages to twinge it a bit. A painful cycle.
Now it looks like I won't be able to get internet today either. The
long distance phone line is being used for a telephone call. As bad
as connectivity is here, I read in Newsweek that the US is only 24th
in the world in terms of internet connectivity, measuring both sheer
numbers and bandwidth. There is a big teachers meeting today, I
really don't feel like going. I don't understand how it benefits the
teachers, probably because I only understand half of the words. Lent
has started, so many have given up meat and other things. The price
of meat seems unaffectedly high. So now what do I do? 45 minutes to
kill, don't feel like lesson planning because I just finished my
lessons for the day.
Why do I always get hungry when I'm bored? I'm attempting to make
boiled potato dough balls tonight, can't remember what they're called.
The instant gratification of concentrated simple carbohydrates
justifies the preparation time. Guess I should eat some vegetables
with them. How much more fun it would be to be checking email. Come
on phone line. Is it worth skipping the teachers meeting if the
internet starts working? I guess not. I wonder what's going on with
the democratic presidential nomination and the world in general. My
TV time has been steadily declining (down to about 2 soccer games and
a track meet each week). I should watch the news more, but it quickly
becomes frustrating that I can't understand more, even as I come up on
6 months in Ukraine. I understand the topics, but none of the
details.
Why does it feel like it's been winter since I got here? Actually the
first week in Ukraine was hot, but since then it's been cool, autumn,
winter, and spring, all cool or cold. April is supposed to warm up.
I'll believe it when I feel it. Guess I should get my summer plans
together, or outlined. Still haven't got a calendar.

Wednesday, March 12, 2008

March 4th

Life is good.  Don't have to move apartments after all.  Good to have a lesson observed and commented upon.  Definitely have a long ways to go before I'm a perfect teacher.  Short bit of internet today not enough time to get any blog posts up, now home for dinner and Ukrainian tutoring. 

I wonder what's happening in the rest of the world…

March 3rd

The soccer season is going to start!  I turned in my mug shot and a copy of my passport. All set to play with my Великі Мости soccer team.  Now I just need to find some new cleats, which will break my budget for March the same way the running shoes ate up my February allowance, and a light green jersey.  First scrimmage on Sunday, and then the real season starts the following Sunday, the 16th.  Other than that, everything seems to be up in the air, and by everything, I mean my living situation.

            My landlady had a miscommunication about how much rent I am supposed to pay.  The visit with my PC director tomorrow should clear everything up, I hope.  With current Ukrainian inflation, about 16%, the PC budget cannot keep up with expenditures, so I may be moving back in with a family, a pensioner, or…  Who knows?  Ukraine is now the most expensive country for the PC to operate in, mainly because of the cities.  In the smaller towns and villages, the standard formula that the Washington DC side of PC decides on works fine.  But since the office and many organizational activities must occur in the cities, there is no way to avoid the expensive side of the wealth division.  In Kyiv, food is now more expensive than in NYC! 

            Teaching is going well, a constant challenge to find interesting material, and organize lessons so that they hold the students' attention constantly.  Tomorrow in my most challenging class both my PC director and my school director will be observing.  Just bad luck that they picked the hardest class.  Part of the reason is that I have two kids in that class who are absolutely incapable of sitting still.  In the US they would be medicated for attention deficit disorder.  In my other classes, I at most have one of those kids.  While I haven't decided whether or not I support medicating kids who are more kidlike than most, it would be nice if I had a little more training on how to engage someone who's natural tendency is to engage in many things simultaneously.   

            Well now to go learn about the EU.  I decided to sit in on the Euro club meetings because it is great Ukrainian practice, and I might actually learn something.  Sort of miss the academic environment.  Then to make some corn tortillas to complement the amazing beans I cooked last night.